Joanna's blog

With Caroline arriving on 30th September in time for the week-long National holiday, we set about cramming as much of Beijing in two weeks as possible. The full list:

Day 1: We had a welcome lunch of baozi (bread dumplings stuffed with meat or vegetables) and milk tea. A visit to the Silk Market was on the cards so we could buy the material to have dresses made. However, not before a fun visit to the local police station to register my foreigner friend within 24 hours of arriving. Somehow, conversing with limited Chinese to the sour policelady on duty, we came out of it alive and legal. Hurrah! We also enjoyed some 'sticky sticks' which are a traditional old Beijing snack in the colder months consisting of sour fruits covered with candy on a stick.

Day 2: October 1st was China's National Day, it's 60th anniversary. Like most people, we decided to watch the Tiananmen Square military parade on TV at home. First though, we took a walk around the Tian Tong Yuan community. Caroline was impressed with the grand local park and bizarre 'friendly police' signage. And already we met some interesting locals. The parade was super-organised and an impressive dislpay. There were lots of men and women in uniform, lots of tanks, and military displays, including a celebrated all-female Red-Arrows style one.In the evening was the much anticipated fireworks display over Tiananmen Square.

Day 3: In the morning we visited the old, but recently (controversially) renovated Dashilan Street, in Qianmen and browsed the famous brand shops selling silk, tea and traditional shoes, stopping for a snack in an old cinema turned cafe/museum and getting measured up at a tailors for our own qipao traditional Chinese dresses. Next up was our pedicab tour of the hutongs - old residential alleyways - in nearby Xuanwumen area. In the hutongs you can get a real sense of old Beijing and local people. It's also amazingly peaceful while still full of people going about their daily lives. After our tour we went to the most famous roast duck restaurant chain in Beijing, Quanjude, to have roast duck. And then we decided to take a walk from Qianmen to Tiananmen Square which was closed off due to the holiday and packed with people with police and soldiers trying to keep order. But still, we had our obligatory Chinese flag and got into the spirit. It was a bit of a crazy welcome to China.

Day 4:Today was Mid Autumn Festival in China, a day and night where families get together and gaze at the full moon. Oh, and eat mooncakes. Which we did - the cake was ok but we weren't so keen on the egg in middle. Then, a trip to the famous Silk Street market and to Qianmen to enjoy the lanterns and feel of history in the air, plus a Starbucks. We bought some traditional Chinese shoes.

Day 5: An early start as we took a taxi to Tiananmen Square to catch the flag raising ceremony which takes place at dawn. Passing through security we gathered with the crowds to see the guards raise the flag with the Chinese national anthem playing. It was an interesting experience; as far as I could tell, we were the only foreigners there. Afterwards we walked around Tiananmen Square which was still decorated from the National Day parade with the 56 pillars (one for every ethnic minority in the country), and the floats. Just next to the Square - the Forbidden City. And then the old Panjiayuan market to hunt for treasures.

Day 6:Another trip to Tiananmen, Qianmen, and, in the evening, a cheesy but great Kung Fu Monk show.

Day 7: Ignoring any signs of tiredness, we were up early again to meet a friend at the Temple of Heaven, another of the most famous must-see sights of Beijing. Then we took a bicycle tour around the hutongs near Houhai lake, finishing the evening with a boat trip on the lake to the sounds of traditional music.

Day 8: Today was more relaxed with a late afternoon trip to the old Summer Palace, Yuanmingyuan. It's a really peaceful park with relics, lots of lakes and pagodas. In the evening we had dinner with my boss in a Xian style restaurant.

Day 9: Another full day began with our trip to the Great Wall at Mutianyu which of course is another must-see. On the way down we took the toboggan ride and didn't buy any overpriced tat from the vendors. Next was the Ming Ruins, the place where many Ming dynasty emporors were buried, which again was worthwhile and full of history. Arriving back in Beijing, we decided to see the Olympic venues - the Birds Nest and the Water Cube - at night. With the lights and the music, especially the fountain show, it was a great sight and good fun for everyone, including friendly volunteers.

Day 10: In the morning we went to the Lama temple, a popular Buddhist temple in Beijing. Lunch was an interesting boiling pot affair at a restaurant in Wangfujing, followed up with a treat from Wangfujing snack street. Then it was back to Qianmen to the famous Lao She teahouse - for a variety of performances of Beijing opera, dance, etc, with tea and snacks.

Day 11: This day was spent at the Summer Palace, where we rented a pedal-boat, bought cheap snacks of sweetcorn (only 2 yuan) and looked around the impressive remnants of the empress' summer retreat. For dinner we found a hotpot restaurant which was very good but maybe next time we'll go for bu la - not spicy.

Day 13: For our last day we went to the Confucius temple which is more quiet and secluded than the Lama temple, ideal for sitting under the willow trees and listening to the sparrows. For our last dinner we must have the real Chinese food, dumplings, so we walked from the temple to Ghost Street. In this red-lantern covered long stretch full of restaurants open all hours, we tried to find a jaozi restaurant and by some miracle didn't have to look for long before enjoying our last supper of dumplings. Then, with our newly made qipao dresses, we made the subway journey home.